2007/07/19 My Juan De Fuca Marine Adventure

After wrapping up the Cleveland Dam aid station at the Kneeknacker, welcoming an exuberant husband at his 15th KK finish and packing the car for a 5 day camping trip, said husband and offspring were off to a secret location on the west coast of Vancouver Island.

We aced the ferry (the waits can be long and frustrating) having planned to make the 11:00am ferry we actually arrived just in time to drive on the 10:00am connection to Swartz Bay.  By 2:00 we were setting up camp, which involves a 2km hike to our secret, beautiful, almost deserted, albeit not tropical beach.  The forecast was for rain, but the skies were blue and the sun hot. 

Somehow, I never manage to go for a run during a family camping trip... something to do with roughing it, no showers, limited clothing supply... excuses, excuses.  This year, I was hoping to get out for at least one run!

After a leisurely breakfast the next morning, I started to contemplate a run west along the Juan De Fuca Trail only to be rudely interrupted by Ean, who suggested I'd better get my ducks in a row as high tide would soon cut off my way back.  Oops.  Off I went, first briefly along a wide trail, then on a rocky shoreline.  The sun was beating down and I soaked my headband a couple of times in icy creeks before gratefully picking up the forest trail again.  I had given myself 30min out to make sure I wouldn't end up waist deep in the Pacific Ocean, but a quick glance at the tidal chart reassured me I would be fine for another 20min or so.  The trail meandered along a ridge revealing breathtaking views of the ocean below and the Olympic Peninsular beyond.  Dark, fertile mud patches were almost dried out and easily navigated.  Finally, a a suspension bridge strung high over a gurgling creek seemed an adequate turnaround.  Scanning the water to assess the incoming tide I heard the telltale whoosh of a whale breathing just off shore and saw a huge tail fluke rise up into the air.  The humpback whale accompanied me along the shore line all the way back the tent, surfacing every so often. The tide was no problem and elated, I made my way back to a freezing dip in the ocean at our campsite.

The next day, my family had planned a visit to Botanical Beach west of Port Renfrew, where the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail starts.  I requested a drop off at Parkinson's Creek, about 10km before Botany Bay.  The access road was long and rough.  The cougar and bear warnings a bit disheartening and the mosquitoes huge and voracious.  But once I set off on the trail, I quickly fell into a rhythm.  The trail is well marked and in various states of maintenance.  Dry, smooth forest floor changed to over grown, rooty and muddy terrain to extensive board walk sections.  Every so often the canopy of trees would open and allow glimpses of  the Pacific Ocean.  Fog loomed in the distance.  Frequent bear scat made me holler every few minutes...at least, I figured I gave the bears a choice of eating me or waiting for the next single traveller ;-)  At one point a loud buzzing noise made me stop and wonder what huge insect was attacking me.  Two humming birds were the culprits.  They must have mistaken my iceberg blue club shirt with a wild flower.  They came so close, I whipped my camera out and attempted to take a photo only to all of a sudden find myself on the forest floor, right leg thigh deep in a hole disguised by salal brush.  Luckily, apart from a few superficial scratches on the legs and ego, I didn't get hurt.

Until hitting Botanical Beach after about 2 hours I only met 1 group of hikers. Definitely not a well travelled area.

High on endorphins I planned a run from Parkinson's Creek back to our campsite for the following day.  Tide levels would be fine to allow me passage even if I'd get a late start.  Water bottle in hand, camera secured around my waist, rescue blanket and food tucked into a pocket I was dropped of at the roadside access to Parkinson's Creek (Ean mumbled something about not driving on that road again). Running down this forest road was the only time I felt scared of meeting a cougar... picking up a sharp rock I resolved to fight whatever would stalk me.   Once on the trail, I soon fell at ease.  There was no way any animal would be able to approach me unheard, the forest was so thick.  I kept up my frequent hollering from the previous day and was thankful not to run into other hikers.  Soon a steady rain began to fall and the ocean was blanketed by a thick fog cover.  Wet coast indeed!  The trail was much rougher than the previous stretch.  Salal and horsetail almost covered the track. What was almost dried out mud yesterday quickly turned into black liquid muck.  Roots and bridges were slimy slides.  No whales or humming birds accompanied me this time.  They all had found shelter somewhere else.  I was glad I had brought the emergency blanket along.  At one point I briefly lost the trail, but luckily didn't get off track very long. 

Once I hit the suspension bridge, the turn-around on day one, I knew I would be home soon.  The ocean stretch proofed to be a bit more challenging in the rain.  The rocks were slimy and had to be navigated carefully.  I didn't bother to return to the trails and another  bridge, but chose to fjord the river about a km west of our camp.  A welcome opportunity to wash the muck of my legs, hands and arms ;-) 

Arriving back at our beach after 3 hours, I quickly jumped into the ocean for a final rinse.  Thankfully, Ean and the kids had built a great fire and a dry lean-to shelter.  After changing into dry gear, I happily huddled close the fire watching the now torrential rains and mystical west coast fog for the rest of the day.  More photos of my runs along the trail are posted here.